Pennsylvania: The Beginning, A.T. Thruhike 2012

     The hike took me into the state of Pennsylvania, and will bring me along its rocks and ridges for over 200 miles. The beginning stretch was an easy, fairly flat stretch. It brought me over an overwhelming amount of road crossings for the first few miles, taking me out of my element.
     I arrived at route 16, and walked east into Blue Ridge Summit for a mail drop. The walk was only a little over a mile, but the road was fast and became narrow for a stretch... It was a bit dangerous!
     I stopped by the Post Office, and got my package. The local scouts had put together a little box of things for hikers there, and I helped myself to some bug spray and hand sanitizer. Signing their little book and saying thank you, I thought about how special this trail is made by all the people who live along it. It's simply amazing.
     With a storm starting, I ducked into a little diner across the street. I had a sandwich and a piece of pie. Packing to leave, the waitresses insisted I stay and wait until the worst of the storm passes. They gave me a little more food on the house, which I enjoyed graciously.
     After a little time passed, I decided I needed to get back on the trail, regardless of rain. I wasn't going to walk that road again though! I stuck my thumb out and in minutes a kind woman gave me a lift.
     I enjoyed the light rain and easy terrain as I made my way north, and I came to a nice little shelter called Tumbling Run. It was actually two small shelters, jokingly labeled "snoring" and "not snoring". I pitched my tent on a tent pad, and conversed with fellow thruhiker "Buzzkill", and a friendly old section-hiking man. That night I listened to the rain as I drifted in and out of sleep.
     The following morning began with a walk up Chimney Rocks, but I had no view due to rainclouds... You can't win them all. 
     20 miles later, I came to a nice shelter, Birch Run. I met "Birchy", the caretaker and trail maintainer for the area, and enjoyed hearing his stories of the trail while sipping a cold soda he had given me. He offered to make breakfast the next morning, so I chose to stop here rather than continuing. I met a fellow thruhiker, a great guy named "Dundee", hailing from Australia.
     I stayed up listening to Birchy talk of his experiences, then retired to the shelter. It was a nice shelter with wooden bunks.
     The next day, rising early, I followed Birchy to his place and enjoyed a nice breakfast and coffee. I caught a ride with him back to the trail, and met up with Dundee.
     Dundee and I walked together for the remainder of the day. After taking a little break, we came to the midway marker. A sign signified that we were halfway to Maine... I let out a wail of joy! I have made it so far, and for the first time, I felt genuinely confident I would succeed in hiking this entire trail in one go.
     We took our pictures by the sign, and, both of us in good spirits, we proceeded into Pine Grove Forest State Park.
     After passing a mansion used to house slaves as part of the underground railroad, we came to a store, which was our first chance to complete the "Halfway Halfgallon Challenge". This challenge is a tradition amongst thruhikers. We had to eat a halfgallon of ice cream in under 30 minutes... I did mine in 24.
     We walked through the ATC Museum, and we were some of the first thruhikers to have our pictures taken for the log.
     Having dreamed of thruhiking the trail for many years, I was in awe of the museum. There was much trail history here, including information on its beginnings, and famous belongings of some of the first and most famous thruhikers. I absolutely love this trail.
     I continued to walk with Dundee the rest of the day. We had shared some great moments, and I enjoyed talking to him while walking. It was a nice change of pace from my usual lone walk.
     We took to a road to have some subs for dinner at a deli. They were inexpensive, huge, and delicious. Perfect.
     That night we stayed in the Alec Kennedy Shelter, and experienced the most insanely loud snoring I have ever experienced. I didn't get much sleep.
     The following day we continued to walk together, and arrived early in Boiling Springs, where we had breakfast. There was the ATC office there, but it was closed. A few miles later, we learned why. There was a new trailhead being opened, and people from ATC were gathered there in celebration. We received bottled water and temporary ATC tattoos, which I sported proudly.
     The trail through Cumberland Valley was a unique section, as it passed right through the middle of farm fields. It was a hot, humid day, and it was made exceptionally hot hiking in the wide open fields all day.
     It grew cloudy, and we knew we would be walking through rain soon. We decided we would do 30 miles into Duncannon, and split a room at the Doyle hotel. I called ahead to reserve a spot, and soon after we were back on the wooded ridgeline, and in the rain.
     Just as the rain began to subside, I spotted something in the trail ahead. A bobcat! As soon as I realized, it had darted into the woods. Much to my surprise, it hadn't gone too far; I could still see it off in the forest. I had enough time to snap a few pictures before it bolted.
     After having our picture taken on the steep and impressive Hawk Rock, we began the steep descent into Duncannon.
     The Doyle Hotel greeted us with a large banner stating that it welcomed hikers. It looked ancient from the outside, and we learned that it was supposedly haunted on the inside.
     The folks there were friendly, and the room, when split, was cheap. It wasn't anything particularly nice, as the place was old and historic, and it was just a minimalist room and a shared bathroom/shower. Still, it felt amazing to wash up and relax.
     That night, I dragged Dundee and a German section hiker named Axel to a local pub. We were the center of attention, as the people there were amazed and impressed by our adventures. We enjoyed a few drinks bought by the locals, including rounds of shots. When we had our bills handed to us, a man sitting next to us paid them for us. It was amazing... People can be so amazing.
     We had a really, really good time. We were all laughing, talking, and overjoyed. With a good, warm and jolly feeling inside, I found my way back to the Doyle, and slept a good, long, well-deserved sleep.
    
     

Maryland, A.T. Thruhike 2012

     After a long, long stretch in Virginia, I am back to knocking off states. West Virginia was as short a stretch as they come, and Maryland wasn't far behind.
     What is great about Maryland is it is very unique from the other states thus far. It wasn't much for wilderness, as I wasn't in deep forest for more than a few miles. It didn't have very many climbs, or rocks; it is some of the easiest trail the Appalachian Trail has to offer.
     What Maryland did offer was an amazing history lesson. It was an intriguing and interesting change of pace.
     As soon as I set foot in the state, I was walking along the old C&O Canal towpath. Mules would use this stretch to haul barges through the canal, until 1924. This interesting footpath was almost lost to highway construction, but was saved by a group of protesting hikers, led by Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas, whom had hiked the entire A.T. himself previously.
     Later that same day, I walk through fields where famous Civil War battles were fought, including the one credited with being the beginning of the end of the war. Some places I walked, I was standing over mass graves of Confederate Soldiers. Interpretive signs along the way bring me back to those days, with great details of how the war was fought.
     I was welcomed into a small museum at one point. In it on display were many actual items used by soldiers in those very fields. I wondered how it felt, living in those times, and fighting a war with ourselves. Seeing their clothes, weapons, canteens, and other belongings really helped put me there.
     I climbed a small hill, with signs along the way that make up a timeline of George Washington's life. At the top, a side trail brought me to a large stone structure. That structure was the first monument dedicated to George Washington.
     Originally built by townsfolk in 1827, the bottle-shaped monument has a staircase leading to the top, where an observation deck gave me views of Maryland and its surrounding states.
     I enjoyed a nice hot shower that night in a facility paid for and provided by the state. I was very grateful.
     The following day, I followed a ridge, with some nice views in a few places. Then, passing through Pen Mar Park, I came to a sign... The Mason-Dixon Line. I am in Pennsylvania.
     Pennsylvania has a reputation for difficult, rocky terrain over low elevation. I am curious to see it for myself. This trail is just amazing, every step of the way.
    
    

West Virginia, A.T. Thruhike 2012

     Making it to West Virginia was a huge accomplishment for me. Arriving in a new state after being in Virginia so long gave me new confidence, and renewed enthusiasm! Don't get me wrong, I loved Virginia. I found kindness and love from many wonderful people, I enjoyed many landmarks along the trail, the rich history, wildlife... Virginia was wonderful.
     It was also a bit mentally draining, however. It just seemed like it was going to take forever to reach its northern border. The weather didn't help, either. For the most part, it was nice. In fact this whole hike I have been lucky with the weather, experiencing rain, snow and hail but usually it isn't bad. But there was a stretch while walking Virginia where it just rained consistently, day after day. And it was a cold rain, too. Paired with chilly nights. It wasn't anything I couldn't handle, but it did make me feel pretty drained.
     The weather, and the fact I went so long without an "accomplishment", added a new level of challenge to the hike; a mental one. I felt lonely. I was cold, and frustrated my gear was wet. I was slipping in mud. I was sore. All this made it noticeably more difficult to find pleasure in carrying all my supplies on my back and up over mountains each and every day.
     I never lost sight, though. As difficult as it became, I would remind myself how lucky I am to be out here living my dream. I breathed deep and took notice of the new wildlife that emerge only in these steady rains, like the rainbow of different salamander species. I set small goals, and ignored the long distances ahead of me. I daydreamed of all the times shared with people I am lucky to have known. I persevered.
     And then, some time later, I came to what is known as the "Roller Coaster", a series of uphills and downhills in rapid succession over a stretch of 14 miles. And on the final hill, racing up to the top, breathing heavily, sweating, greeted and congratulated by a few fellow thruhikers... I arrived to the sign. Virginia is done; I have completed another state. A warm blood ran from my heart and through my body, and I smiled a most sincere and joyous smile.
     After spending the night at Blackburn Trail Center, a nice little place set aside for hikers with bunks and a woodstove, I strolled on into Harpers Ferry, West Virginia. Arriving at the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC), I was overwhelmed with emotion. I am pretty much halfway... I felt that making it this far, I can make it all the way.
     I was greeted by friendly volunteers, who gave me a place to sit and a cool drink, and we talked of the trail. I had my picture taken, and I am now officially in the records as a thruhiker.
     A very friendly person, and also a bit of a "celebrity" since being featured in the National Geographic A.T. Documentary, offered me a place to stay for the night in exchange for some work. I was excited to be able to spend a little extra time in this historic town.
     It was a great experience; we ate, talked about hiking, laughed, and watched movies. He really added to my experience!
     The next morning, after breakfast, he joined me in walking a few miles up the trail. As we strolled through Harpers Ferry, I admired the antique appearance. The town goes to great lengths to preserve its old appearance.
     The town is full of history. It has significance in the Lewis and Clark expedition, it was the site of occurrences which led to the Cival War and abolishing of slavery, and is the site of a once booming town full of old buildings, churches, cemetery, etc.
     I would learn as I walked with my host that the trail followed along an old canal towpath. Along the canal, as we passed old locks, was an old railroad track. At the time of their construction, canals were successful while trains were unproven. It ended up that the railroad became far more successful, and the canal became unused in time.
     We walked a few miles, and then he wished me luck and we parted ways. I have been very lucky to meet so many wonderful people along the trail. The people are a huge part of this experience, and I will never forget any of them; they have changed my outlook on things in a way I will carry with me for years to come.

Side Trails In Shenandoah and the Thruhiker Mentality, A.T. Thruhike 2012

     In the Smokies, I had decided to not only hike the Appalachian Trail from it's border to border, but I had decided to also throw in a few additional side trails, adding to the mileage of course, but also increasing the rewards with great views and an incredible experience.
     In Shenandoah National Park, I did the same. Not just because I wanted to increase the payoff though, but because I felt I needed to.
     You see, I realized quickly that in this National Park, the trail, which was very well maintained and well graded, brought me close to many scenic views and mountaintops, but did not bring me to them. In order to truly appreciate this place, I had to take to the side trails.
     Now, being a purist, I refuse to miss a single "white blaze" that marks the Appalachian Trail. That means I can only do out-and-back trails. Fortunately, there were plenty of good opportunities for short trails to some scenic mountaintops.
     Shown below are pictures of a couple of the side trail vistas, including a short walk to the stunning Stony Man Summit. Shown are myself and a fellow thruhiker, the kilted "Salt Bomb", whom was one of a few hikers on the trail willing to walk a few extra miles.
     This brings me to the topic of a "Thruhiker Mentality". I have come to realize that many people out here for the long haul develop a narrow sense, where they, in some cases, refuse to do anything but clock miles on the A.T. For example, arriving at a shelter later that day, I mentioned that I had done two side trails, and that they were impressive. A couple of fellow thruhikers insisted that I was crazy for putting in those extra miles.
     It gets interesting, though: I then asked if any of those same people had gone the extra 2 miles to go to the first "Wayside", which is essentially an overpriced fast food joint. Every one of them had. So, apparently I was crazy for going out of my way for beautiful serenity, to bag another peak, or to simply enjoy this wilderness... But it isn't crazy to travel miles for food.
     This is a syndrome. A mentality that overtakes some hikers out here, where food and conveniences become the only drive. Where one passes by mountains we may never cross again, waterfalls so close you can hear them, and the fellowship with the wilderness that we had sought in the first place.
     I am not criticizing. Everyone is out here for their own reasons, and can enjoy their hike in whatever way they please. I have just decided that I am out here for the scenery, the wilderness, all that this trail has to offer.
     I am hungry, tired and sore; but I refuse to give in. I don't want this experience to feel like a job, or a chore; that I must get up and churn out miles just because. I will get up and do what I love, and I love backpacking. I love climbing mountains, taking in views; I love walking this trail.

    

Shenandoah National Park, A.T. Thruhike 2012

     Waynesboro proved to be a very hospitable and hiker-friendly town. The local YMCA has a nice grassy area set aside in a park for thruhikers to pitch their tents whilst visiting the town. They also provided me with a care package with soaps and whatnot, and allowed me to use their showers. It was my first shower in weeks, and I can not tell you how wonderful it felt.
     The town also has a "trail angel network", which basically is a long list of names and numbers you could call for a free ride to town or back to the trail. These folks were undeniably angels, as they brought me where I needed to go out of pure kindness, and were so absolutely friendly in the process. I appreciated their help so much!
     As of Waynesboro, I have lost 45 pounds. This was a little shocking, I knew I would lose weight but I didn't expect to lose so much, not even half way in!
     I have what is referred to as "hiker hunger" in full force now. What this means is that my body has burned through much of its reserves, and I now burn much more calories then I can possibly consume. The result is a consistent hunger, and the ability to eat ridiculous amounts of food while still losing weight.
     In fact, eating becomes crucial at this point. My ability to eat and consume calories directly impacts my energy level throughout the day and following days. Waynesboro fortunately is home to a number of good, yet inexpensive, restaurants that I enjoyed.
     The weeks of rain and hail finally subsided for a few days, perfectly timed as I prepared to return to the trail. A trail angel gave me a ride back to the A.T., and I returned to my long walk.
     Within a few miles, I entered Shenandoah National Park. This park is beautiful to say the least. The trail runs along Skyline Drive, intersecting with it numerous times. This offers some unique conveniences that a thruhiker doesn't normally get. Passing picnic areas, campgrounds and campstores, restaurants, and the like means for a hiker easy access to potable water, bathrooms, trash barrels, meals and food.
    I took a side trail to conquer Tunk Mountain, and then followed the A.T. over Black Rock Mountain. I had hiked here previously with good friends just over a year ago, and I was immediately immersed in fond memories. The mountain summit itself is a fun little rock scramble, essentially a pile of rocks and boulders offering nice views. I sat and thought of time spent with friends, fun and joyous moments past.
     I also thought about the fact that prior to my thruhike, this was the southernmost section of this long trail I had set foot on. I remember seeing the white blazes, thinking of how this is the same trail I walked on regularly in New England; I was so excited and hopeful to walk it in its entirety. I talked my friends' ears off on the topic of the trail for the rest of the trip. And now, here I am, thruhiking... I am really, truly living out my dream.
      After passing by Loft Mountain Campground, and utilizing the store for resupplying, I came to some breathtaking vistas atop Loft Mountain. I decided to pitch my tent nearby, and I sat on my rocky perch and enjoyed the panoramic sunset while eating dinner. It is moments like these that I feel complete, that I truly appreciate the privilage of being on this long journey.
     The trail over the next couple of days has been nice and well graded. Honestly, this is the first time I can honestly say the trail has gotten easier since I started.
     Even though the trail isn't quite as difficult, I have chosen to take my time here. I have made good time thus far, and I don't feel I need to rush. I am enjoying this forest so much. It is refreshing, like cleansing myself of modern society, if even just for moments.
     The wildlife has been abundant. I have seen more deer than I can count. They don't run away immediately like the deer back home; here they seem to hang around, almost posing for my camera.
     I have startled a couple of bear. As I walk alone, quietly down the trail, I will catch a short glimpse of black fur as they dart away into the woods. They leave behind many signs that they are very present, where they dug for grubs, claw marks on bark, and scat along the trail.
     Last night, the threat of thunder led me to call it a day a little early, as I ducked into an old chestnut shelter. I was joined by 3 section hikers. They turned out to be a friendly bunch, and we sat around the fire sharing stories and laughing all evening. I had a great time, enjoying the simple pleasure of good company, and nothing else aside from the natural world abound and all around us.
     Today I made it to Skyland, a resort catering to guests of Shenandoah National Park. I could not pass up the opportunity to sit and enjoy a good meal, and I am glad I did. I enjoyed a delicious, filling meal by a window with gorgeous views. I was joined by a fellow thruhiker named Salt Bomb, and we talked a lot about woodworking, which is his trade.
     Getting back on the trail, blessed with nice weather, I am looking forward to the rest this park has to offer. Today the trail passes close to Stony Man Mountain, and I may just chose to climb to its summit.
     This adventure is made even more amazing in that I am free to do and roam as I please. These woods and mountains are calling for me, and I have every intention to remain within them until I am home.

Roan Highlands, A.T. Thruhike 2012

     Emerald green seas of grass, and endless views.
     The Roan Highlands proved to be an easy highlight of my journey!
     It started with a long, hard uphill, over Roan Mountain. Not much to see, a wooded summit with a historic site which Skyland Hotel once stood, catering to guests in the late 1800's and early 1900's.
     What followed was beyond words.
     After passing a gap, I proceeded to climb once again. This time, though, I was climbing a large, grass mountain.
     Once at the top, I could see in every direction, and at great distance. It was beautiful.
     This bald mountain was proceeded by another, and yet another. I spent much time gazing into the distance from a soft place to sit that afternoon.
     After departing the last summit, the trail dips back into trees, and eventually connects with a trail once used by local militia men, the Overmountain Men, to travel to and battle the British in the Revolutionary War. This bloody battle was a crucial win for the war, which these men fought using their own guns and provisions, and without the aid of medical or supplies.
     Turning down the side trail, I found myself walking an old gravel road to a big, red barn that has been converted into a shelter.
     It was early, and I had intended to walk further, but this ancient barn was too neat to pass up.
     I laid in the grass, soaking in sun and breeze.
     I was told by another hiker that it was haunted. It was also Friday, the 13th. An interesting night, to say the least.
     The next morning, I woke and was out in front of the barn before sunrise. I decided I would begin up Hump Mountain, another grassy bald, to watch the sun rise as I walked.
     I was in constant awe.
     The sun rose directly behind a distant mountain, filling the sky in many colors in a most magnificent manner. It was such an inspiring moment.
     I continued across balds, with expansive views in all directions. I could even see the shelter, that was once the barn for a small farm, nestled way below in a valley.
      I wondered to myself if the people who once farmed here appreciated this beauty. I felt they must have, it might be why they chose such a inaccessible location in the first place.
      They may have had much in common with me; a need and desire to be here. I wonder.

Unaka Mountain, A.T. Thruhike 2012

     The forests of the Southern Appalachians thus far have been a very unique experience for me. Having never hiked in some of these states previously, I was pleasantly surprised at how new and exciting the little things would be to me.
     In Georgia, the ground was not the Earth I am used to in the Northeast. Nor is it similar to that of the West. No, here the soil itself was a clay. A dark red clay that managed to stand out in contrast vividly to the greens and brownish-greys of the forest.
      Georgia also gave an affect of a jungle setting at times. With thick vines, vines that often outnumbered the trees; and waxy green leaves, thick and dominant.
     Since breaking into North Carolina, the vines and jungle characteristics gave way to thick forest of poplar trees and many small flowers and brush.
     An interesting feature once north of the Smokies is the American history lost to the woods... These forests are dotted with old grave stones, foundations, and many old fences just hanging precariously amongst young regrowth.
     What I have noticed thus far in Tennessee alone is an abundance of water. Falls, cascades, rivers and large streams have been a constant since walking through this fine state.
    
     There was a different feeling one day, a unique moment in these southern forests.
     I began climbing up Unaka mountain. A typical day, one where I sweat and push myself steadily uphill, reminding myself there will be a less exhausting yet joint-punishing downhill in the near future.
     As I close in on the top, a change begins to take place. The bare trees begin to form needles. The crunching leaves below begin to fade, along with the small brush plants and flowers; in their wake, a brown floor of needles take their place.
     I have walked into a red spruce forest. This is not a place typical of the south, it is instead a sky island of a forest more at home in the Northeast. A place more like what I have called home in recent years.
     The trail grows darker under the cover of branches thick with needles. The air grows moist. The air chills, and an icey breeze follows. Moss, thick and deep green, becomes dominant around tree roots and anywhere the brown needles on the ground give space. The birds sing different tunes.
     I have this to myself; nobody in front or behind me. I slow down, to take this experience in.
     I breathe deep, letting the cool, moist air caress my lungs. The scent of pine sap in the air.
     I close my eyes.
     I am walking an autumn afternoon, breathing deep the cool crisp air. I enjoy the act of hiking, the steady pace and constant changing scenery. The sound of the soft ground beneath my feet, a bed of needles and moss.
     I am in Maine, in the Maine woods. It is a beautiful afternoon, spent hiking as I often would. I am sore, and naturally tired; it has been a long day of hiking.
     But I am just here for the weekend, and my weekend is coming to a close. I will soon hop in my truck, my faithful little Chevy I have babied. I will have a pleasant drive, through the town of Monson and down winding scenic back roads. I will play my music I love.
     The dog will be so excited to see me, jumping and wagging her tale. I will crack open an ice cold drink, and put some meat on the grill.
     Checking on my vegetables, darn squash beetles on my cucumbers again. I will have to do something about them. I pick some lettuce, mustard, and some ripe tomatoes for a salad.
     I stop to grab any eggs out of the coop.
     Tomorrow is work. I dread the alarm, the monotony; but I do look forward to talking to friends and being productive.
     A warm bed tonight. A warm fire. A good book. Riding bicycles with friends after work, then laughing over some drinks downtown.
     I open my eyes.
     As I begin to descend Unaka, the branches grow increasingly bare, the sun beginning to warm the air. The soft ground slithers away, and I hear the crunch of dead leaves once again.
     The moss gives way to small stemmed plants. The moisture in the air leaves, and so does the cool breeze.
     I am in a typical forest of the Southern Appalachians once again.
     I walk, walking everyday. Every day. I wake in my tent, eat my oatmeal, brush my teeth, and proceed North. There is no truck, no dog. These woods are where I rest my eyes, and where I spend my days.
     I have many miles to go, and many experiences ahead.
     Both physically, and also within.